Please bare with me because I hae no other way of doing this...
7:29 AM...beep...start...man I hate stretching...Pssttt...ahh...the ever familiar hail of a taxi here...or toubab...turn around and see a young girl carrying fresh bread home for breakfast...surely that wasn't her...I...HATE...RUNNING...IN...THE...SAND...finally pavement...man it still must be early because those guys aren't even out selling coffee yet...bonjour toubab...bonjour...nothing beats the smell of the boulangerie in the morning...the main drag...man there aren't that many black and yellows at the turnabout yet...that will be a differet story when I get back...the market stalls are slowly opening...I guess I'll run on the sidewalk...almost roll my ankle...back on the road it is...bonjour toubab...bonjour... what's the commotion before the bridge...ahh I don't think that car rapide's muffler should be glowing bright orange and shooting out hot embers...I hate this footbridge...too narrow...too mant people...slow to a trot...there's another runner...we both look at each other with the same look...i wish we could just push these people off this bridge...an opening...we nod as we pass...almost to the end...there we go off...over the langue bridge...this place is way busier than the market near the stade...see q fqther son fishing duo...he was predestined for that life way before he was born...his son will be a fisherman...and his son's son...he doesn't seem to mind...get to the crumbling stairs leading to the ocean...breathe in the fresh, salty air...remember home, friends, family, my...donne-moi l'argent...kid does it look like I have money? I'm on a...remember I'm in Senegal...Je n'ai rien...head bqck home...back over the lange bridge...traffic is picking up...let's take the car bridge instead...I'd rather risk getting hit on this tetanus, strewn monolith then wait for people on that Godforsaken footbridge...ahh there is one way traffic...that makes this easier...and quicker...the market is bustling now...bananas and beignets...pants and crevettes...knock off jerseys and DVDs...a noire et jaune on my tail...what is his problem...he yells at me in wolof qnd points to the sidewalk...i yell at him in english and point ahead...he is gonna get caught in traffic ahead...should i???yeah I saved enough in the tanks...hop on the sidewalk...kick it into the next gear...time this just right...cut back on the road...in front of him...look back...wave...smile...au revoir...past the roundabout...passed the OiLibya...take the wrong turn at the wrong TiGo sign...backtrack...take the right turn...back to the sand...to the house...bonjour toubab...bonjour...beep...stop...8:03 AM
Song of the Moment: Nothing Song - Sigur Ros
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Missed Connections Craigslist Senegal
Dear Young Senegalese Man w: B/W hat,
Although a simple "Hey man, I like your music" would have sufficed. This was not enough for you. I will take it as the ultimate form of flattery to have enough gusto to nick my iPOD from the bar while we were all there enjoying the music over the surround system. It's especially impressive thqt you would do this because my music is was so appealling to you, because a friend of mine witnessed what your countrymen do to thieves (mob justice is apparently are normal for you all). I also have to take time and thank you for allowing me the opportunity to experience how your law system works. You will be interested to know that it is not that different than the US. A lot of waiting around the police statoin for nothing of frutition to come about. Either way I hope you enjoy my musicbase thoroughly with your friends. You guys could have a bitchin' house party with some of the songs on there.
Sincerely,
me
PS: I can't wait to hear "Turnt Up" bumpin' out of all the car rapides in Saint-Louis.
Song of the Moment: Soundguy is My Target - Rusko
Although a simple "Hey man, I like your music" would have sufficed. This was not enough for you. I will take it as the ultimate form of flattery to have enough gusto to nick my iPOD from the bar while we were all there enjoying the music over the surround system. It's especially impressive thqt you would do this because my music is was so appealling to you, because a friend of mine witnessed what your countrymen do to thieves (mob justice is apparently are normal for you all). I also have to take time and thank you for allowing me the opportunity to experience how your law system works. You will be interested to know that it is not that different than the US. A lot of waiting around the police statoin for nothing of frutition to come about. Either way I hope you enjoy my musicbase thoroughly with your friends. You guys could have a bitchin' house party with some of the songs on there.
Sincerely,
me
PS: I can't wait to hear "Turnt Up" bumpin' out of all the car rapides in Saint-Louis.
Song of the Moment: Soundguy is My Target - Rusko
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
The First Cup
The first cup of tea has very little sugar and little if any mint added to it. It is said to be bitter like death...
I can honestly say I wasn't bitter about the situation until Christmas day 2007. I was sad, upset, and distraught; bitterness didn't come till that day. I had moved past the present aspect of the holiday, but when she couldn't even watch my brothers open their presents that morning because of the discomfort and pain the anger and bitterness set in. I'm glad to learn that I wasn't the only naive one, she seemed like she was getting better. Her hair was growing back and her energy increased substantially. Maybe it had already progressed too far; maybe she was exposed to some pathogen during her plane flight with me (I still wonder if it was ultately my vanity that killed her); or maybe it was all the social interactions of the holiday. Nevertheless, I could feel the rage and anger building in me as she laid with an IV drip on the couch that night.
The phone rings, I curse myself for my medical knowledge I had gained in college, end phone conversation, sit let anger and bitterness build, through plastic cup against the wall with enough force to break it, ignore Will's question as I walk out the door, walk of the deco and down the stairs, look at the gate, let fist meet the gate, assess the damage on the hand, shrug, sit down on the stoop, sob...
I can say I was namely bitter at God and myself. I should have been there that final year. I was mad at God for putting her through that pain. I was made at him for making my brothers into men at such a young age, I am so proud of them for taking up that torch. I was angry that he took away the love of my dad's life. I can also say bitterness switched to my dad as he moved on, while I remained in the infant stages of what the psychological world calls "the stages of mourning". Dad I want you to know I am so happy for you now though. When she died I lost a large portion of my being, and in turn anger and bitterness were born and fed by those last memories of her. Dad, Seth, and E I'm sorry you had to put up with me for the last two years and the way I was...
In her death though she still teaches me. She didn't have the bitter taste of that first cup in her soul when she passed. She was able to savor the taste of the last two cups before finality struck. It is that fact alone why I finally can get the disdain and map taste out of my mouth and move onto the next two cups as well.
Today was a rough day of work. At this daara, I had a kid that had been hit by a car and received a tibial fracture. His anterior chamber was extremely swollen. However, we did not have the means to do anything for him, and because he was a talibe he would just slip through the cracks I'm sure. So we had to leave without helping him in anyway. That boy still ways heavy on my heart.
On a MUCH lighter note, I'm fairly sure my mom here thinks I lack hand mouth coordination. This is nely because at dinner the plate is always farthest from me and I sit with my back to the light source. Needless to say I get offered a spoon when everyone else eats with a fork.
Song of the Moment: Up Above - Cyne
PS: I already wrote this post once and it got erased. Although I have to say the first draft was better, I'm glad I pushed myself to go through it again. It all needed to be written out, more for my own personal reasons than anything else...I did experience something else interesting today. I'm sure the same feeling would befall a young Muslim man if he heard a Catholic choir boy singing a hymn; but today at the same daara I was completely captivated by a young talibe chanting the Koran in Arabic. My words wouldn't be able to describe the beauty and otherworldliness of hearing that...
I can honestly say I wasn't bitter about the situation until Christmas day 2007. I was sad, upset, and distraught; bitterness didn't come till that day. I had moved past the present aspect of the holiday, but when she couldn't even watch my brothers open their presents that morning because of the discomfort and pain the anger and bitterness set in. I'm glad to learn that I wasn't the only naive one, she seemed like she was getting better. Her hair was growing back and her energy increased substantially. Maybe it had already progressed too far; maybe she was exposed to some pathogen during her plane flight with me (I still wonder if it was ultately my vanity that killed her); or maybe it was all the social interactions of the holiday. Nevertheless, I could feel the rage and anger building in me as she laid with an IV drip on the couch that night.
The phone rings, I curse myself for my medical knowledge I had gained in college, end phone conversation, sit let anger and bitterness build, through plastic cup against the wall with enough force to break it, ignore Will's question as I walk out the door, walk of the deco and down the stairs, look at the gate, let fist meet the gate, assess the damage on the hand, shrug, sit down on the stoop, sob...
I can say I was namely bitter at God and myself. I should have been there that final year. I was mad at God for putting her through that pain. I was made at him for making my brothers into men at such a young age, I am so proud of them for taking up that torch. I was angry that he took away the love of my dad's life. I can also say bitterness switched to my dad as he moved on, while I remained in the infant stages of what the psychological world calls "the stages of mourning". Dad I want you to know I am so happy for you now though. When she died I lost a large portion of my being, and in turn anger and bitterness were born and fed by those last memories of her. Dad, Seth, and E I'm sorry you had to put up with me for the last two years and the way I was...
In her death though she still teaches me. She didn't have the bitter taste of that first cup in her soul when she passed. She was able to savor the taste of the last two cups before finality struck. It is that fact alone why I finally can get the disdain and map taste out of my mouth and move onto the next two cups as well.
Today was a rough day of work. At this daara, I had a kid that had been hit by a car and received a tibial fracture. His anterior chamber was extremely swollen. However, we did not have the means to do anything for him, and because he was a talibe he would just slip through the cracks I'm sure. So we had to leave without helping him in anyway. That boy still ways heavy on my heart.
On a MUCH lighter note, I'm fairly sure my mom here thinks I lack hand mouth coordination. This is nely because at dinner the plate is always farthest from me and I sit with my back to the light source. Needless to say I get offered a spoon when everyone else eats with a fork.
Song of the Moment: Up Above - Cyne
PS: I already wrote this post once and it got erased. Although I have to say the first draft was better, I'm glad I pushed myself to go through it again. It all needed to be written out, more for my own personal reasons than anything else...I did experience something else interesting today. I'm sure the same feeling would befall a young Muslim man if he heard a Catholic choir boy singing a hymn; but today at the same daara I was completely captivated by a young talibe chanting the Koran in Arabic. My words wouldn't be able to describe the beauty and otherworldliness of hearing that...
Monday, March 22, 2010
The Toubab Strikes Back
So there is an an acronym that is used in West Africa, WAWA, which stands for West Africa Wins Again. The majority of the time this is true. trains times get changed for no reason causing you to miss them and purchase a new ticket for the next train that "will surely leave at the designated time. Border officials make up new laws and regulations to feed their personal coffers. Merchants almost always have a regular price and a Toubab price for goods. However, every once I'm awhile you can beat this system. I have noticed that on my walk to work everyday I'm able to pick up wireless for a short stretch next to a military compound. So since everyone enjoys this blog from what I am told, I figure I'd get in the African spirit and borrow their Internet to re-up the blog more frequently.
The process of making tea and communally drinking it is big in Senegal. The tea more often than not is of the verge variety. Water, sugar, and mint are the other components. Whoever is making the tea goes through an elaborate process of cooling and frothing the tea for consuming. The tea is repeatedly poured into the various small glass tasses from elevated altitudes. This both allows the air to cool the tea and foam up in the glasses as well. It's very interesting and enjoyable to watch. I am slowly, but surely getting used to doing this skillfully, just like a lot of things here, without losing the majority of the tea. I enjoy the whole social aspect of it, after every evening of work all the volunteers relax on the veranda on top of work. The view is immense by the way. It's a way of bringing everyone together to just talk about the day or life in general. This generally consists of three separate cups which a distinct taste to each conveying three important aspects of the world. So I've decided the next three blog updates are gonna be conceptual surrounding these three cups of tea as the apply to yours truly. Should be a somewhat interesting look at myself, for both y'all and me. So stay tuned friends and family...
Overall was a today was a pretty good day. Went to work in the morning and when I got back I took a nap. Went back to work in the afternoon, and got some really good photos of les talibes that hang around the center most often. It's hard to get candid pictures of these little guys because as soon as you pull out the camera everyone wants a piece of the action. Of course I am more than happy to oblige. Hopefully they won't ever figure out the difference between live view and regular view mode, or else my candid chances are out the window. After work and tea this evening, I got a nice night run in. By the way, E, I can tell you this much I have yet to find any form of Gatorade here. So in turn as much water as I drink here I am never rehydrated. Thanks to the 30 minute walks to work (that's just one way mind you) and my love for running. Then again everyone knows that I never hydrated properly anyway. Oh and for all you people that said I never eat or any of that nonsense, you should see me here. I eat MORE here than I ever have at home, that information is mainly for Amanda, Rachel, and KFerg. Like I said this trip is full of irony. Speaking of food I'm about to eat dinner, so until the next time...
Song of the Moment: Disorder - Joy Division
The process of making tea and communally drinking it is big in Senegal. The tea more often than not is of the verge variety. Water, sugar, and mint are the other components. Whoever is making the tea goes through an elaborate process of cooling and frothing the tea for consuming. The tea is repeatedly poured into the various small glass tasses from elevated altitudes. This both allows the air to cool the tea and foam up in the glasses as well. It's very interesting and enjoyable to watch. I am slowly, but surely getting used to doing this skillfully, just like a lot of things here, without losing the majority of the tea. I enjoy the whole social aspect of it, after every evening of work all the volunteers relax on the veranda on top of work. The view is immense by the way. It's a way of bringing everyone together to just talk about the day or life in general. This generally consists of three separate cups which a distinct taste to each conveying three important aspects of the world. So I've decided the next three blog updates are gonna be conceptual surrounding these three cups of tea as the apply to yours truly. Should be a somewhat interesting look at myself, for both y'all and me. So stay tuned friends and family...
Overall was a today was a pretty good day. Went to work in the morning and when I got back I took a nap. Went back to work in the afternoon, and got some really good photos of les talibes that hang around the center most often. It's hard to get candid pictures of these little guys because as soon as you pull out the camera everyone wants a piece of the action. Of course I am more than happy to oblige. Hopefully they won't ever figure out the difference between live view and regular view mode, or else my candid chances are out the window. After work and tea this evening, I got a nice night run in. By the way, E, I can tell you this much I have yet to find any form of Gatorade here. So in turn as much water as I drink here I am never rehydrated. Thanks to the 30 minute walks to work (that's just one way mind you) and my love for running. Then again everyone knows that I never hydrated properly anyway. Oh and for all you people that said I never eat or any of that nonsense, you should see me here. I eat MORE here than I ever have at home, that information is mainly for Amanda, Rachel, and KFerg. Like I said this trip is full of irony. Speaking of food I'm about to eat dinner, so until the next time...
Song of the Moment: Disorder - Joy Division
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Check out the Eyes
Well this is just a quick one for you people...I am eating lunch with some other volunteers in a cafe with WIFI. Things are going well here, I am just living it up. I love it here and I'm glad I got to phone some of you guys because of the Orange Promotion Day...
Real quick, I noticed that some people have this uncanny ability to smile with their eyes. When the wind is blowing here everyone has a scarf, t-shirt, or something to cover up their face for protection. However the eyes can convey a lot...just something to think about...hope all is well and I will blog again soon...
Photos are up on facebook...
Song of the Moment: One Big Holiday - My Morning Jacket
Real quick, I noticed that some people have this uncanny ability to smile with their eyes. When the wind is blowing here everyone has a scarf, t-shirt, or something to cover up their face for protection. However the eyes can convey a lot...just something to think about...hope all is well and I will blog again soon...
Photos are up on facebook...
Song of the Moment: One Big Holiday - My Morning Jacket
Friday, March 19, 2010
So I figure I'm gonna do my best to get this blog thing rolling pretty regularly now. By the way if there are loads of typos don't hate...It's a french keyboard and I don't have the time or energy to edit this stuff.
Well today is my 3 week anniversary here, it's like the time here is on overdrive. I can honestly say I don't like that at all. I want to be able to slow down time while I am here, but keep it going at regular speed for all those crazies that miss me. I hope your break from me is going well, you all deserve it.
So let me give a quick rundown of my work; L'Espoirs de Demain is essentially a mini-infirmary, barber shop(with straight razorblades), daycare, daara to daara medical team, community center, and cafeteria (on Friday afternoons we feed the kids). The medical aspect of things is really sad. No time to change gloves between kids, minimal supplies, minimal budget, and that's compounded with an even bigger population to treat. We do the best that we can with what we got. Touba, the gentleman that runs it, he is a good man in my eyes and the services we provide are surely better than nothing.
It's hard as shit to turn a kid away at a daara because we ran out of supplies in our kit. C'est les vies des Talibes. These kids are tougher than anyone I have ever met, and what they go through would be hell for anyone in the western part of the world (I would argue that they have some of the hardest lives in the eastern part as well). Just keep doing what I can to make them laugh, smile, and feel better while I am here.
I do have to say that last night couldn't have been put together more perfectly by her...I sat on the veranda of my work listening to a melange of laughter and words spoken in no less than four different languages. Men, women, and children playing cards and drinking tea communally forgetting that they are Toubab or the person next to them is a Negre. The harmattan blowing dust into the air, while the sun provided a glow that made the whole scene ethereal. As I sat there and took in all that I could, I really couldn't help but believe that this is the way life should be...
I WILL BE GETTING PICTURES UP TOMORROW FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE BEEN ASKING...INSHA'ALLAH that is...
Well today is my 3 week anniversary here, it's like the time here is on overdrive. I can honestly say I don't like that at all. I want to be able to slow down time while I am here, but keep it going at regular speed for all those crazies that miss me. I hope your break from me is going well, you all deserve it.
So let me give a quick rundown of my work; L'Espoirs de Demain is essentially a mini-infirmary, barber shop(with straight razorblades), daycare, daara to daara medical team, community center, and cafeteria (on Friday afternoons we feed the kids). The medical aspect of things is really sad. No time to change gloves between kids, minimal supplies, minimal budget, and that's compounded with an even bigger population to treat. We do the best that we can with what we got. Touba, the gentleman that runs it, he is a good man in my eyes and the services we provide are surely better than nothing.
It's hard as shit to turn a kid away at a daara because we ran out of supplies in our kit. C'est les vies des Talibes. These kids are tougher than anyone I have ever met, and what they go through would be hell for anyone in the western part of the world (I would argue that they have some of the hardest lives in the eastern part as well). Just keep doing what I can to make them laugh, smile, and feel better while I am here.
I do have to say that last night couldn't have been put together more perfectly by her...I sat on the veranda of my work listening to a melange of laughter and words spoken in no less than four different languages. Men, women, and children playing cards and drinking tea communally forgetting that they are Toubab or the person next to them is a Negre. The harmattan blowing dust into the air, while the sun provided a glow that made the whole scene ethereal. As I sat there and took in all that I could, I really couldn't help but believe that this is the way life should be...
I WILL BE GETTING PICTURES UP TOMORROW FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE BEEN ASKING...INSHA'ALLAH that is...
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Oui, Je suis un Toubab
Okay let me apologize for a few things here. One that I haven't been in contact with everyone as much as I would like. Internet service is dodgy at best in Africa. Second sorry for the nu,erous posts today, but it is a Godsend that Blogspot saves you drafts randomly. Anyways enough of that, I hope you all are well because I am DOING FINE. I absolutely love it here and the people are so nice. My work can be difficult, but it is absolutely worth it at the end of the day. I love these kids already and I have only been here a month.
So desert culture is absolutely amazing. Now technically I am not in the Sahara, Saint Louis is actually located in a region called in the Sahel. This is the closest thing I have ever been to a desert though. The city is so lively, and more so than a lush place full of green foliage. I think its because people here do everything with a purpose, because you can't afford not to. I enjoy it and running here is difficult because of the heat and sand. Which I ironically enjoy, you all know I love a challenge. I strive to be the fastest Toubab in Saint Louis. The sand is everywhere and gets everywhere. Yeah you would hate it Will. I actually don't mind it already, and I think I am going to be pretty upset when I wash the last bit of sand off me when I leave this place. Oh that whole Toubab thing, a Toubab is the name given to White folks here, if you are Arabic you are a Gnar, and if you are of Black African descent you are a Negre. Although my host mom says that if I tan too much I'm gonna go from Toubab - Gnar - Negre. Haha, I told her I don't really care.
I have a roommate now also. His name is Christopher and he is from England. He is 21 and a great guy. I really lucked out because we clicked right away. He is a Toon Fan because he is from Newcastle. Anyways this whole thing has been blessed by her I believe. Everything from my placement to my host mom to my roommate. For the first time in a long time ALL the pieces are fitting, and that just seems odd because I am in such a foreign place.
I believe the people here need the sand, just as much as they chreish the water. It sets them apart from the rest of the world and its a part of them as much as water is. I hope I leave here with water, blood and sand my veins. I don't ever want to forget this place or the people here...
Oh by the way, IT'S VERY HOT HERE IF THE HARMATTAN QUITS BLOWING...
Song of the Moment: Staring at the Sun - TV on the Radio
So desert culture is absolutely amazing. Now technically I am not in the Sahara, Saint Louis is actually located in a region called in the Sahel. This is the closest thing I have ever been to a desert though. The city is so lively, and more so than a lush place full of green foliage. I think its because people here do everything with a purpose, because you can't afford not to. I enjoy it and running here is difficult because of the heat and sand. Which I ironically enjoy, you all know I love a challenge. I strive to be the fastest Toubab in Saint Louis. The sand is everywhere and gets everywhere. Yeah you would hate it Will. I actually don't mind it already, and I think I am going to be pretty upset when I wash the last bit of sand off me when I leave this place. Oh that whole Toubab thing, a Toubab is the name given to White folks here, if you are Arabic you are a Gnar, and if you are of Black African descent you are a Negre. Although my host mom says that if I tan too much I'm gonna go from Toubab - Gnar - Negre. Haha, I told her I don't really care.
I have a roommate now also. His name is Christopher and he is from England. He is 21 and a great guy. I really lucked out because we clicked right away. He is a Toon Fan because he is from Newcastle. Anyways this whole thing has been blessed by her I believe. Everything from my placement to my host mom to my roommate. For the first time in a long time ALL the pieces are fitting, and that just seems odd because I am in such a foreign place.
I believe the people here need the sand, just as much as they chreish the water. It sets them apart from the rest of the world and its a part of them as much as water is. I hope I leave here with water, blood and sand my veins. I don't ever want to forget this place or the people here...
Oh by the way, IT'S VERY HOT HERE IF THE HARMATTAN QUITS BLOWING...
Song of the Moment: Staring at the Sun - TV on the Radio
Monday, March 8, 2010
Asalaam Aleykoum
Ok sorry to everyone that I have worried by not posting. I have been getting busy adjusting to things here and finding where everything is. Well the people here are amazing let me say first and foremost. My host mom, Madame Bawa is amazing and reminds me exactly of you know who. She has already told me that from now until the end of days I am her son.
The place I work at with les Talibes is less of a daycare and more of a quick stop infirmary/ I spend my days cleaning wounds, shaving heads because of lice and scabies outbreaks, cleaning daaras, and feeding the kids. The conditions are pretty bad, but it is one of those lesser of the two evils things.
Yesterday I was enjoying a run and I realized how lucky I am to enjoy that simple thing. The people here can not afford to run because it wastes precious energy that the people need to use to go through daily life. That was such a foreign concept for me. I truly am blessed.
The last thing I wanna say real quick is that I have never experienced something as beautiful as last night. I was laying in a sand garden in my house here, looking at so many bright stars, the power was out in Ndiolafene...in my cartier this occurs frequently, and listening to the the last call to prayer from the mosques. Absolutely amazing to say the least, words can not possibly do that moment justice.
Song of the Moment: Facing East - Thievery Corporation
The place I work at with les Talibes is less of a daycare and more of a quick stop infirmary/ I spend my days cleaning wounds, shaving heads because of lice and scabies outbreaks, cleaning daaras, and feeding the kids. The conditions are pretty bad, but it is one of those lesser of the two evils things.
Yesterday I was enjoying a run and I realized how lucky I am to enjoy that simple thing. The people here can not afford to run because it wastes precious energy that the people need to use to go through daily life. That was such a foreign concept for me. I truly am blessed.
The last thing I wanna say real quick is that I have never experienced something as beautiful as last night. I was laying in a sand garden in my house here, looking at so many bright stars, the power was out in Ndiolafene...in my cartier this occurs frequently, and listening to the the last call to prayer from the mosques. Absolutely amazing to say the least, words can not possibly do that moment justice.
Song of the Moment: Facing East - Thievery Corporation
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